Day 22 - Approaching Civilization
Day 22: Elk River → Islands of Peace Archipelago
Date: July 30th, 2022
URM 877 → URM 861
Distance today: 16 Miles
River Time: 8 hrs
Today I converted my boat to a tandem canoe, because my uncle Brad joined me for the morning! He met me at unofficial River Angels Rolly and Sue’s house, early this morning. We said our goodbyes and leapt into the swift-moving current.
As we paddled we began to see some serious signs of civilization. None more so than when we approached Champlin, MN. There were high rise apartments, industry, and busy roads going over bridges.
My good friend from way-back-when Grisha was waiting for us at the docks, so we stopped to have a chat and also some breakfast! It’s always nice to see and chat with supporters new and old!
We continued on, facing an ever-increasing headwind. Our next destination was Coon Rapids Dam. This was my second-to-last portage so I’m feeling done with them for sure. This was a relatively quick and easy portage to make. Then we stopped for lunch and said our goodbyes. It was nice to catch up with you and of course to paddle with you, Brad!
After lunch I got back in and headed south from the dam. I was protected for a while in a natural canal, but soon I faced the full force of the wind that had picked up considerably over lunch. I stuck to the banks where I bothered many a heron trying to fish. Sorry, herons!
I started to hear the dull hum that is civilization. Highways, power boats, motors, honking, construction, music, and voices all contributed to the background cacophony. This din picked up in volume slowly but surely until I reached my campsite for the night. At this point I’ve grown accustomed to it as background noise now, it barely registers a blip. But emerging into it from the wild, the new soundscape was remarkable.
Islands of Peace Archipelago
I didn’t have to battle the wind for long, as my camp was only 5-6 miles past the dam. I landed on Durnham Island, which is the largest in the Islands of Peace Archipelago. According to the local park ranger, this is the only park in Anoka County that has had a murder on it. On an island of peace no less! So I have that sobering thought as I drift off to sleep tonight.
This is the absolute very last campsite before you’re in the downtown area, and it’s the last campsite until Pinprick Island, some 31 miles downstream and well past St. Paul. It’s a great last stop for paddlers before they arrive in Minneapolis.
This is also the first primitive campsite I will have stayed at on this trip so far. This will become a common occurrence, however, as I camp more and more on sandbars in the coming months.
Tomorrow I will: Arrive in Minneapolis, portage Upper and Lower St. Anthony Falls, and lock through Lock #1. A big day to be sure!
What I’m Reading
I have a lot of time in the canoe: 8-10 hours a day on average. And I’ve been listening to audiobooks to pass the time. I’ve just finished No Ordinary Time by Doris Kearns Goodwin, which was a monster read. At about 40 hours in audiobook format, I believe it’s over 1000 pages. But it was worth it. It is the very interesting story of the USA in World War II. However, it focuses on the domestic front, speaking to the leadership of FDR and especially Eleanor Roosevelt.
It was very interested to learn that specifically in wartime, it was extra beneficial to have a competent and active First Lady, because the two of them basically divided duties foreign and domestic, with Eleanor overseeing domestic concerns, issues, and legislation. This allowed FDR to focus on the European Front, among others. This was a luxury no president had had before. It was eye-opening to learn about their leadership styles and strategies, where they skirmished and agreed, and how they lead the country through WWII mostly as a team. In doing so, Eleanor Roosevelt created an entirely new precedent for what a First Lady can be.
Anyway, I’m looking for more books! On deck for audiobooks is The Monkey Wrench Gang, by Edward Abbey. I’m also reading Life on the Mississippi,by Mark Twain in a paperback, but making slower progress with it because I’m on the water so much and can’t read there! If anyone has any book recommendations, let me hear them! Bonus points if they are outdoor themed. I have to get my reading material squared away for the rest of the trip during my Minneapolis stop.
River Log Day 22
875.7 Foster Island Camp: Lackluster site. Decent landing but actual camp inset into woods a bit, and a bit dim and dingy. 1 picnic table, 1 fire ring.
875.5 - Cloquet Island South: Very similar to above.
866 - Coon Rapids Dam: Nice boat ramp at take-out. Just before put-in, there is a difficult section for portage wheels, use caution or put on shoulders.
861 - Islands of Peace, Durnham Island: Best last camping spot before the Twin Cities. After this, there’s a whole lot of nada. Best camping is on NW side of largest island, Durnham Island. Primitive camping.
Have you read Paddle Pilgrim by David Ellingson? Good book! You may like it.
Book recommendation
River of Doubt, by Candice Millard, the true story of Theodore Roosevelt's trip on the Amazon River. Dark at times, but fascinating.
I second your rave review of No Ordinary Time. Doris Kearns Goodwin's fabulous social history of Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt and their times. Her best book. But Team of Rivals, about Lincoln and his cabinet, is also excellent.