Day 4 - First Lake of the Mississippi River
Lake Bemidji
Hello!
Decent service here so I thought I’d try for two days in a row!
Day 4: Silver Maple Camp→ Island Point Camp
URM 1290 → URM 1276
Distance today: 14 Miles
River Time: 8 hrs
Today was a day of firsts on this journey, first lake crossing, and first time making a portage with the shiny new portage wheels I’ve been waiting so eagerly to try!
I woke up to swarms of mosquitos, broke camp quickly as I knew they’d be better off the water. Silver Maple is a wonderful wooded campsite, and that just comes with the territory. A few more weaves around some deadfall, and I had arrived at Lake Irving, the tiny cousin of lake Bemidji, and it’s precursor. Right at the entrance to the lake I saw my first american white pelicans! A very short channel connects the two lakes, and within no time I was looking out at the vast Lake Bemidji: the first lake on the Mississippi River. (I don’t count lake Irving, it just doesn’t feel right.)
I stopped for a quick photo near Paul and Babe, the classic Bemidji photo.
Crossing the river after this I was reminded what a joy it is to paddle on open waters, and how different it is than the small river I’ve been on. The breeze on my face and the shimmering water felt refreshing after a few long swampy days.
The wind was completely manageable and I made it to the outlet in very good time. One thing I noticed right away upon rejoining the Mississippi is how much clearer the water is here! The water up until now has been reddish, a bit swampy water, that smells like grass. Now the water was crystal clear and the aquatic plants danced below in the sunlight beautifully. It was truly a treat to be paddling today.
After crossing Bemidji my journey continued on a similar reedy section to ones I have described, but again the channel was noticeably wider. Progress was slow-going in this section because there were no wakes allowed, so I had to stay under the speed limit!!
In all seriosness though, it did feel like progress to be sharing the river with motor boats, where just yesterday and prior, such a thing would have been impossible. The river is changing drastically every day before my eyes.
I officially passed the northernmost point of the Mississippi River. May my latitude ever shrink from this day forward! My last major task of the day was the Power Dam Portage. I was excited to try my new portage wheels bought specifically for this trip! Turns out this was the perfect portage to make use of them!
After this portage, there was a beautiful little rapids section, and the sun was shining brilliantly and reflecting on the water brightly. It was pristine paddling conditions and I couldn’t get enough of it!
When I arrived at Island Point, my camp for the night, the weather couldn’t make up its mind. It went from a hot heat to thunderstorms and back several time. This made drying my clothes challenging, but oh well. This site has magnificent views of the river from a high bank, that never get old.
I made myself some dinner between the squalls, and just sat and took in the view.
After dinner I was paid a visit by some very dear friends, Ann Skoe and her son Arnaud. For those of you who do not know, I was among lofty company, as Ann paddled the entire Mississippi River in 1993. This was done before modern conveniences like cell phones, GPS, and river angels, so she’s got some serious credentials! It was such a delight to catch up and swap stories about the river.
Ann is also one of the reasons I’m doing this trip. Many years ago she told me about her trip down the river in a canoe, and I was blown away. I had no idea that was even a thing one could do. That moment was a spark for me, and ever since then a little ember has been kept alive, the dream of paddling the river myself. I am so happy to be doing so this year. Thanks Ann, you’re an inspiration!
That’s all for today. An early morning tomorrow, when I’ll have my sights set on Cass Lake!
A few more photos from the day:
River Log Day 4
1286.9 - City of Bemidji: If you turn left directly after entering Lake Bemidji, you will arrive shortly thereafter at the famous Paul and Babe statues. Popular photo spot.
1287-1284 - Lake Bemidji: In case of high winds hug east shore. Exit channel has 2 bridges over it, which are easily visible from water, but there is only 1 path through the reeds to arrive there easily. Look out for the 2 buoys which mark this passage.
1279 - Stump Lake Camp: Beautiful lakeside site with good landing. 1 Adirondack shelter, 1 latrine, 1 table. No sign visible from water, but landing is clear. Make a sharp left after the point and you will see landing.
1277.7 - Power Dam Portage: Marked well. Good landing upstream, donwnstream side is steep and rocky.
1277-1276: Can be rapids here depending on tailwater from dam. Many tubers like to float this section as well. Beware.
1275.8: Island Point Camp: Beautiful, expansive camp situated on high bluff. A hefty hike up well-maintained stairs yields gorgeous view of the river. 2 Adirondacks, 4 tables, 1 latrine.
Love the writing brother! Great stuff!