Day 91 - A River Rat’s Dream

The Mississippi River’s Last Batture Settlement

Day 91: Belle Chase Marine → Batture Settlement

Date: October 7th, 2022

LRM 115 → LRM 104

Distance today: 11 miles

River Time: 3 hours

Local Gauge: 2.4 New Orleans Gauge

Last night was very poor sleeping conditions. Lights, horns, motors, waves, trains, and loudspeakers all conspired to keep me awake. I did get some sleep, in fits and starts, but I was awoken every hour at least by the world around me.

When 6am rolled around (I decided to sleep in), I was ready to get out of this place. I was buoyed by the fact of having a shorter day and a destination already confirmed.

I packed up my camp and waded through the quicksand to load my canoe. The tide had come out while I slept, so the walk was longer than last night.

I got on the River in the minefield of moored ships and barges. In this stretch, the ocean-going vessels would be moored smack-dab in the center of the channel, making it tough to know which was the “main” channel. Indeed, the vessels that were moving would go on either side of these parked ships. It felt a lot more like a lake than a River.

Ocean-going vessels parked in the middle

By the time the sun was fully in the sky I was halfway to my destination: The Mississippi River’s last Batture Settlement.

I got my first glimpse of the New Orleans skyline here, but it was distant and hazy. I crossed under the Huey P. Long Bridge—the entrance to New Orleans—and soon 9-mile bend was in sight. As I began to round the bend and could see the batture settlement come in to view, as the city skyline faded.

NOLA skyline on left, batture settlement on right coming into view

The Mississippi River’s last Batture Settlement

Life On The Batture

The batture (pronounced “batcher”) is a word most are not familiar with. It basically means the earth between the levee and the River. Because it is inside (riverside) of the levee, it is not protected from big floods. However most of the year, this area is high and dry. Especially this year with the River at historic lows.

All of the houses are on stilts, which protect them from spring floods, and from 99% of high water years. My host was Macon Fry, who has lived inside the levee on this settlement since the early 90s. He has also written a book about life in these ‘camps’. There are 12 camps total remaining today, down from a high point in the 1950s of around 140.

I’ve been wanting to visit this place for a long time, since I first read about it in RiverGator. I then met Macon through Quapaw, and told him about my trip down the Mississippi. We arranged to meet as I paddled down and through New Orleans.

The settlement has a clandestine and counterculture appeal to it. Most people here live simply and use what’s around them. Most of the structures are built from harvested materials which washed down the River. There is a strong anti-consumerism ethos here. All of this drew me to want to visit this unique place, and I am so glad I was able to do so! I was totally enthralled and enamored for all of my day spent here, it’s such an interesting spot, and a vestige from a bygone era.

Macon points out the pilings his house sits atop

The view from inside the levee

A passing ship out the front window

The batture goats

If you’d like to learn about life on the other side of the levee, check out Macon’s great book on the subject!

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I also got a chance to explore New Orleans a bit by bicycle. Much of the levee system is bikable here, and loads of people take advantage of it. It’s very nice. Walk outside Macon’s back door, and you’ve arrived on the levee. The bike path on top stretches far in either direction.

It felt really good to be on the bike and using some different muscles! As much as I love canoeing I’ve been missing riding a bike during this trip, so today’s ride was very refreshing!

Photo taken from atop the levee

Bicycling in the very beautiful Audubon Park

Gear Breakage

As I pulled into the batture, and set my water jug down on the sharp rocks, it sprung a leak! This jug has served me faithfully since Minneapolis, but unfortunately it broke less than a week before the end! I tried to repair it, but no repair methods I have would be food-safe in under 24 hours. Luckily I have some friends in New Orleans who may be able to help out. Stay tuned for tomorrow’s update!

Although I consider myself arrived in New Orleans, tomorrow I will pass through the heart of the city. Tomorrow will be a half-day to enjoy New Orleans and Algiers Point.