Day 92 - Well, Hello New Orleans!

Strong winds through the port city

Day 92: The Batture Settlement → Algiers Point

Date: October 8th, 2022

LRM 104 → LRM 94

Distance today: 10 miles

River Time: 4.5 hours

Local Gauge: 2.3 New Orleans Gauge

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This morning was peaceful and restful. I woke up naturally and was even able to sleep in a bit! We enjoyed a leisurely morning: coffee with a view. On Macon’s porch, I saw a moth coming out of its exoskeleton.

I slowly packed up my gear, not really wanting to leave this place that I had very quickly become enamored with.

We lifted the canoe back over the riprap and onto the water and said our goodbyes. There was wind in the air, but the water here was calm.

I drifted past Audubon Park and the Army Corps base here, thankful for the calm waters and knowing I had a half-day to enjoy and take my time.

An Army Corps ship

The Port of New Orleans

When I passed 6-mile-point, I was slapped in the face by fierce headwinds. I was also confronted with the Port of New Orleans. Both of which were harrowing.

I stuck to the side of the channel as best I could, but this was impossible at some (most) junctures, as huge tanker and container ships lined the edges. There was no longer a river bank to speak of in most parts, only wharves and sea walls. When I was forced out toward the middle of the channel, the winds got stronger, and I paddled harder.

It was seriously demoralizing. There were times in the direct headwind that I was just inching along. It would take me ten minutes to pass a single ship sometimes. But there was nothing to do but keep going. No breaks allowed until shelter was found. This was one of the few times on this trip when I’ve felt vulnerable on the water.

I was taking on some water from the waves crashing in, and because I was forced to be far from shore, there was not an option to bail out at every moment. Luckily, I made it through, as I have all the other challenges the Mississippi has had for me.

The Port of New Orleans is somewhat similar to that of Baton Rouge, but not really. While Baton Rouge was more hustle-bustle with small tows darting to and fro, this port was just plain bigger. The scale of some of the docks and ships was just mammoth. See below for some pictures from my passage through the port.

At some point in the chaos of the port, I passed mile 100! I’m now in the double-digits! Under 100 miles remain until the Head of Passes, my final destination and the end of the Mississippi River!

Below, scenes from the Port of New Orleans:

Willow trees growing out of old posts

Refuge from the wind

An abandoned and eroding wharf

Today’s winds were so rough, especially in the corridor of the port, that even the tow boat and ocean vessel captains were feeling its effects on their handling. Over the radio I heard a lot of:

“Get over father, the wind is pushing me toward you!”

“Give me space, I’m losing the handle here.”

“Do whatever you need to do with the wind, I’ll stay out of your way.”

“The wind is pushing me hard this way, pass me on the 1 if you can. If not, better to wait.”

And more. Channel 67 was busy today.

Indeed, some of the harbor tugs even assisted the ocean liners while they were moving at full speeds in order to make some tight turns! This was a new one for me:

A critical Resupply at Jackson Square

After this 10-mile paddle my arms felt like they would fall off. I was so happy to see Adam and Amelia of the A-Team for a lunch and a very critical resupply.

They resupplied me with provisions, but crucially, they were able to replace my water jug, which broke yesterday! River Angels are the best. Thank you so much for your support, A-Team! It means a lot to me!

I stepped over the levee just briefly to see the famous Jackson Square on the other side. Seemed like a cool spot, but I’ll take the River please.

It was great to see the A-Team and swap some stories from their River voyage. They just completed their trip down the Atchafalaya. We commiserated over many things that only paddlers who’ve been on the Mississippi can fully appreciate; it was very nice and a little cathartic, honestly.

I was sad to leave, but I had a campsite to get to and a dicey crossing to make: directly across the way to Algiers Point. Amelia managed to snap a few pics of me as I made my crossing among the tall ships.

Algiers Point

I made it to a nice, sandy beach on Algiers Point. After only 10 miles paddled today, I was beat. But I love this campsite — it has some incredible views! And I’ve had many kind people stop by and ask me about my trip while staying here. It’s nice to find new, nice folks by happenstance. It happens quite a bit on this trip.

Here to Venice, LA

Strong winds, mostly headwinds, are in the forecast for the next 4-5 days. There is a tropical depression in the Gulf causing all of this wind. I’m not sure that it even has a name currently, but it’s visible on the radar. And of course, conditions will get more and more blustery the closer I get to the Gulf itself.

Camping is sparse in these sections, as the amount or revetment increases drastically. I am thankful to know that if I do get in a sticky situation, both the A-Team and Macon said they could come pick me up.

For tomorrow, my goal is 26 miles to Willis Point (Mile 68). Normally, this would be a simple day, even in slackwater. But with headwinds it will be a challenge.