Days 19 and 20: River Otters and Shooting the Sauk Rapids
Day 19: Blanchard Dam → Bergstrom’s
Date: July 27th, 2022
URM 957 → URM 934
Distance today: 23 Miles
River Time: 8 hrs
Today started off with a quite gnarly portage, of the Blanchard Dam. It’s not straightforward, and required quite a bit of maneuvering of the canoe on wheels. Also a few times I had to unload the canoe completely for a particularly steep or unruly section. But in the end I managed the canoe safely to the tail waters of the dam.
The current was strong for a good bit after the dam, so I just coasted and enjoyed the float mainly. I saw a family of river otters. This group was particularly bold, and eyed me as I floated by instead of slinking into the water. So I managed to snap a few photos:
I took my lunch at Stearns County Park, and from then it was only 9 miles to River Angel Lee Bergstrom’s home — conveniently located right on the River! The winds picked up a bit in the afternoon but nothing crazy; I was able to hug the shore and arrived early afternoon.
Lee took me to scout out the Sauk Rapids, which are the big test I will face tomorrow.
The Sauk Rapids are maybe .5 miles of densely clustered rocks and boulders, and at this water level, many of them were sticking above the water. And still many more lurked just beneath the surface. This is the most shallow the Sauk Rapids have been all summer, so there weren’t really any recent scouting reports to go on.
I considered simply portaging the rapids, but in the end decided to go for it. “There must be some line through there!” I told myself, and I was determined to find it.
Later, back at the Bergstrom’s, I busied myself organizing and drying my gear. Then, we had a fabulous dinner which gave me some much needed refueling. I happened to arrive by chance on ribeye night at the Bergstrom household, which I wasn’t upset about at all. I’m not usually one to post food pictures on the internet, but this is my journal to remember the trip by, and this was such a big meal and big moment I had to include it. I felt so much better and so much more ready to continue the trip after this substantial meal!
The thing about staying over at River Angels’ houses is that not only is it replenishing and relaxing, it’s also like a giant reset on the trip. When I paddle day after day, and eat camping food day after day, the gas in my fuel tank runs a little lower and a little lower each day. It’s a slow but persistent drain. Pair that with an uncomfortable sleeping spot or bad weather and it can become very draining. But after even one night with a good hearty meal and a sound sleep, I feel like I’m ready to hit the water the next day with renewed vigor! Thanks River Angels for all you do!
Tonight, I am going to bed feeling satiated, and with the strength to face the Sauk Rapids tomorrow!
Day 20: Bergstrom’s → Oak Island Camp
Date: July 28th, 2022
URM 934 → URM 906
Distance today: 28 Miles
River Time: 11 hrs
Today was a big day. I was filled with apprehension as I dreamt about running the Sauk Rapids this morning. There were so many rocks there. I kept on just recalling that image in my brain.
I had a light breakfast, for I couldn’t hold much down — the nerves were already setting in. I told myself it was not too late to portage the rapids, that was always on the table up until the moment I was in them. I shoved the thought away but knew I’d revisit it later.
I had some paddling to do before the rapids. My first order of business was the Sartell Dam. They had a nice little sign greeting me:
Having completed this portage, floating down the River I knew the Sauk Rapids were my next challenge. It was an odd feeling drifting toward something big not knowing exactly what it would entail. I had scouted things out from above, but you never really know how these rapids will go until you’re in them. So I paddled on. Here is me running the Sauk Rapids:
What a thrill! I was definitely sweating bullets at the end there. And what fortune to have two bald eagles join me at the end, that felt like a good omen. The Sauk Rapids were a blast, and I’m so glad I decided to run them instead of portaging them. Even at this water level there’s plenty of water in order to not hit rocks, on a few of the lines. Lee offered to take some of my gear off my hands in order to make my boat sit a few inches higher in the water. In hindsight, I would have done fine with a fully loaded canoe, but I didn’t know that until I was in it. Until the very moment I dropped in, I didn’t know, so it was a comfort to know I had a few inches of leeway, and a more nimble canoe.
I had scouted the general path of the portage, which proved to be invaluable. I already knew about the “S-Shape” path I was going to take, so I didn’t have to even think about that when the time came. I switched to my kayak paddle for this small section in order to get over faster and put myself in a good position for the rest of the rapids. At the end of the day I don’t believe I touched a single rock, and it was the highlight of my day without a doubt!
This is my last true rapids section until St. Louis, where I will face the Chain of Rocks. However in all likelihood I will just portage around that one, because water levels will be too low.
After that adrenaline-filled adventure, I had one more portage very soon after: the St. Cloud hydro dam. This was one of the more involved portages so far on the trip, because there were steep steps at the end that the portage wheels couldn’t navigate. So I had to do the standard method of putting the canoe on my shoulders. Took a little extra time, but was totally doable.
I took a quick lunch a ways downstream, and realized that I had only done 8 miles before noon! Those were 8 dense miles though. Portage, rapids, portage. I was happy to have that section behind me. And thank goodness, my next dam is in Coon Rapids! (Which also happens to be my penultimate portage, woo!)
The sections below St. Cloud are swift, and shallow. There were a couple more boulders poking out here and there, but definitely manageable. Mainly just a really fun section to paddle! I stopped at Boy Scout point at URM 917, and almost camped there for the night. It was really scenic on a beautiful stretch of the River. I decided to keep going because I was making good progress and didn’t want to quit yet!
I am glad I didn’t too, because just past Clearwater, I met two fellow paddlers Brandon and Blake. These were two fine fellows and we got to talking and swapping stories. They were interested in my journey, and signed my travel log as well. (Blake is skilled with video editing and offered to make me a little montage video at the end of my trip. Blake: reach out to me after the trip if you’re still interested!) It’s always nice to find some fellow paddlers and water lovers!
NOTE: If I see you on my trip I’d love for you to sign my travel log/guest book. If I don’t bring it up, remind me! I want your autograph!
I soon made landing at Oak Island! This is a gorgeous site smack dab in the middle of the River. It seems like just last week that the River was too small to even have islands … which is because it truly was just last week! If I’m not mistaken, this will be my first night on this trip sleeping on an island of the Mississippi. However, it definitely will not be the last! More and more I will start to call islands my home as official campsites on shore become non-existent. Basically from Minneapolis to the Gulf ,most of the best campsites will be on islands!
Now I just had a monster day so I am going to crash hard, and sleep like a rock!
More Photos
River Log Day 19
990-990: Numerous gravel bars that would make decent primitive camps. From McDougall Island to the power line crossing.
942 - Stearns County Park: Nice campsite with trash, water, and porta potties. Watercraft-only campsite (no road access, maybe better for weekends) is .2 miles downstream. (No amenities)
River Log Day 20
932 - Sartell Dam Portage: 3 options for put-in: 1) 300 yards, at mouth of Watab River (very rocky, canoe on shoulders) 2) 600 yards, underneath CR 29 bridge. This area is currently under construction, and it’s unknown whether or not this will remain viable. 3) 800 yards, across stoplight at Rotary Park. Nice paved road down to an actual dock and access.
929 - Sauk Rapids: Recommended to scout beforehand from Sauk Rapids Lions Park LBD. Ideally check flow beforehand. @6000 CFS (St. Cloud Gauge) for me today it was totally doable. Keep your head on a swivel.
926 - St. Cloud Dam Portage - Rough rocky take-out. Down very steep steps to put-in. Be ready to ditch the portage wheels on parts of this one. Water available at Riverside Park where the portage ends, in case you were going lightweight for the portages/rapids today.
923 - Putnam’s Pasture camp: Spacious and open, with good gravel-bed entry.
917 - Boy Scout Point Camp: Very nice campsite with 3 distinct camping areas within. Spacious. Nice gravel beach access. 2 picnic tables, 2 fire rings. Very scenic spot and well maintained.
906 - Oak Island Camp: Campsite is at head of the island. Very nice gravel/sand beach access. 1 picnic table, 1 Weber grill (??) nice high spot overlooking the River. Scenic. Eroding quickly on RBD.