Day 41: Illiniwek State Park → Geneva Island N.
Date: August 18th, 2022
URM 493 → URM 462
Distance today: 31 miles
River Time: 9 hours
Countdown to St. Louis: 272 miles
Today the crew woke up early and with anticipation of the big day ahead. We would be paddling into and through the Quad Cities of Iowa. We were up and moving before the sun showed itself, and were on the water for the nice red glow of sunrise.
The River was calm and not too busy. We passed many fleeted (parked) barge containers, but only a handful of tows moving. There was lots of industry on both shores as we paddled the ten miles to Lock #15, and many large bridges to pass under, as well.
As we made our approach, we passed Arsenal Island on our left, one of the top three caches of weapons and ammunition in the United States. Here, we encountered many “No Trespassing” signs facing the water, and also this jumbled mouthful of a sign.
Lock #15
Soon after, we reached Lock #15. This lock, more than any other thus far, was in the heart of the city. There were people, buildings, bridges, trains, cars, noises, and other boats all right nearby the lock. It was certainly a change of pace from many of the other locks that were very rural.
Most places actually have two locks side-by-side, the main lock and the auxiliary lock. This means even if a tow were to be locking through, pleasure craft like myself would be able to lock through simultaneously and not be forced to wait. This was the first lock I encountered where the auxiliary lock was in operation. I appreciated that.
What I didn’t appreciate was the lockmasters’ insistence that we all hold ropes. I am of the opinion that it is safer and more pleasant for canoes and kayaks to float in the middle of the chamber while locking through, instead of being tethered to the side.
This is because we don’t have bumpers to protect our boats, and our hands are busy wielding a paddle — it’s tough to do that and carry a rope. This has led me many times to hold the rope with my toes, and use the paddle to keep from bumping against the wall.
Quite a few locks have been gracious and allowed me to float, but others require me to carry the rope. Such is life.
All good things come to an end
After Lock #15, we had only three miles before Sunset Landing, where River Angel Jo would take Will back to his car for his journey home. We took our time with it, chatting and savoring the last moments on the River together. (And also nicely requesting that passing barges and trains honk their horn at us.) Thank you, Jo, for your kindness and helping with the logistics of this visit!
The Slog Ahead
Will had to get back home, and Solange left to get her car and my resupply, but I still had more miles in store for the day. Leaving the skyline behind me, I paddled into a dense industrial area. There were hundreds of fleeted barges on either shore, and many helper tows moving one or two barges at a time. I really had to keep my head on a swivel for this section, as there was constant commotion.
In addition, sometimes it’s difficult to discern if a tow is moving toward you or is stationary. With distances so great on the River, there are many optical illusions, and you must play it conservatively. It’s dangerous to assume something is stationary, and ten minutes later find out it’s moving right at you. I move through zones like this with an escape route or two always in mind.
Fairport, IA
My destination today was Fairport, Iowa. Solange met me there with her vehicle, and we ferried to a nearby convenient sandbar. The locals call it Bikini Beach, and it’s located on Geneva Island North, aka Island 329. Tomorrow is a rest day and resupply day, and I need it!
Day 42: Geneva Island N. → Geneva Island N.
Date: August 19th, 2022
URM 462 → URM 462
Distance today: 0 miles
River Time: 0 hours
Countdown to St. Louis: 272 miles
Not much to say for today, as writing these blogs is work in itself. I’m taking the day off from writing, as well as paddling. Big storms are in the forecast as well for tomorrow, so it may become two rest days.
My main task today was resupplying and repacking gear, which always leads to a huge explosion of gear and bags! (Thanks to Solange for bringing the resupply!)
River Log Day 41
476.5 LBD: Small island across from Horse Island. Lots of sand, few trees.
475 - Smith Island: LBD. Good beach, but lots of industry nearby.
473 - Island 319: LBD Large sandbar, gets heavy use on weekends by local motor boats.
469.5 - LBD. Massive amount of sand but steep.
465 - Sandy Point Recreation Area: Paid RV Camping.
462 - Fairport State Recreation Area: Paid RV Camping.
462 - Geneva Island North: RBD from main channel. Good beach on main channel side of island. Called “Bikini Beach” by locals. Decent shady spots back in forest a bit. Gets decent use on weekends.
Interesting that you mention the frustration of the difficulty differentiating between moving and stationary tows. No one mentions that but it was my biggest challenge, even with a monocular I carried in my pfd. That challenge led to a close call between Baton Rouge and New Orleans. My radio saved me that day.
Glad you can do some paddling with Sollange, and yay to zero days. Keep enjoying the experience Jean Canot👍☀️🛶