Days 67 & 68 - Memphis and Dismal Point
Day 67: Memphis, TN → Memphis, TN
Date: September 13th, 2022
LRM 737 → LRM 737
Distance today: 0 miles
River Time: 0 hours
Countdown to Baton Rouge, LA: 508 miles
Today was a glorious rest day! I showered for the first time in over 500 river miles, and got some nice hearty town food! I also got a chance to explore the scale model of the Mississippi River on Mud Island. It’s a very cool place, and something I’d recommend to anyone visiting Memphis.
I also had a chance to visit the iconic Memphis Pyramid. There is an observation deck at the top of it, with a very long glass elevator ride to get there. The view from the top overlooking the Mississippi River is incredible! With the benefit of elevation, it really captures how large of a body of water the Mississippi truly is.
All in all, I had a wonderful time in Memphis. I was able to get some rest and relaxation, and see some cool sights in this river town. There is a lot of history here. The city hasn’t fully recovered from the assassination of MLK, but there are a lot of good people and good things happening in this city. For example, the Lorraine Hotel is now the site of the must-see National Civil Rights Museum.
A big thanks to my River Angel hosts and new friends, Bill and Leslie. You guys are so generous, and it was great to meet and hang out with you both! My journey was made better by meeting you!
Day 68: Memphis, TN → Dismal Point
Date: September 14th, 2022
LRM 737 → LRM 724
Distance today: 13 miles
River Time: 2.5 hours
Countdown to Baton Rouge, LA: 495 miles
I’ve begun my countdown to Baton Rouge. It’s a long one, but a significant one. Baton Rouge is an extremely busy port, and is also where I’ll begin to see ocean liners on the River. The Mississippi River also starts to slow down here as the ocean starts to push back a little. Alligators become more prominent, and I enter the Chemical Corridor. All in all, it’s another major inflection point on the River.
Today was a very short day on the River. Solange is joining me from Memphis to Clarksdale, MS, and her flight got in at noon. We were fully loaded and on the water around 2:30 p.m. This meant we only had time enough to make it out of the Memphis industrial area before we called it a day. There is a minor heat wave for the next 4-5 days — highs in the low 90s — so we will be keeping our paddling hours mainly in the morning, and short.
We paddled past the iconic-for-paddlers three Memphis bridges. Down in the Lower Mississippi River, bridges are sparse. Paddlers can go days without seeing one, much less three! It’s a unique moment on the Big River.
My good friend and River Angel Bill also raced around to the pedestrian bridge to take a photo of us passing underneath. I’m constantly in awe of how small a canoe looks on the Lower Mississippi. So small, we look like a piece of driftwood on a tow boat’s radar.
Thanks Bill for the photos with a neat perspective!
We ended our day just past President’s Island, at Dismal point. It was a day with many different moving parts and logistics, and lots of context switching. I’m ready for bed!
Glad to hear that you had a good break in Memphis. The scale model of the Mississippi is very cool and the views from the pyramid are amazing. Those photos Bill took are enlightening. I’m sure it gives your mother the heebee jeebies to see your little canoe on that huge river! It should be nice to have Solange with you for awhile. Take care!