For the past three months I have had the pleasure of working at one of my favorite places in the United States: Crater Lake National Park.
I know most of you subscribed here are looking for Mississippi River content—don’t worry, that will continue this fall! But I’d be remiss if I didn’t write a post about my great summer at this beautiful place.
Like no Other Place on Earth
Crater Lake’s claim to fame is that it contains the clearest and cleanest water in the world, which makes it appear a deep blue to the human eye. Visibility tests performed every year are typically around 100-120 feet, and the lake holds the world record for the deepest visibility reading on Earth of 143 feet, which was recorded in 1997.1 When I did a visibility test with a Secchi Disk this summer, I recorded 101.3 feet, so I can personally confirm its clarity! (see photo at the bottom of the post.)
Why is the water so clear? It all has to do with how Crater Lake was formed.
Crater Lake Geology, aka Why so Blue?
Crater Lake once was a mountain, estimated to reach 12,000 ft. in elevation. About 7,700 years ago that mountain erupted violently and blew its top off, collapsed, and left behind a massive crater in its wake. Geologists estimate the magnitude of the eruption to be 100 times larger than the Mount St. Helens eruption2, and filled the air with smoke and ash for two weeks.
This newly formed crater, initially empty, began to accumulate rainwater and snow melt over the years, filling the basin. The clarity of the water is due to the lake water being supplied purely from precipitation; there are no inlet streams or rivers to bring sediment and churn up the water. In addition, seepages in the lake remove minerals already dissolved in the lake.3
So there you have it, Crater Lake is so clear and blue due to its pristine inputs.
Crater Lake is also the deepest lake in the United States, and the second deepest in North America. The deepest point sits 1,943 feet below the surface.
Many ask why the lake does not get deeper every year, with continued precipitation. The answer is it has reached the point of homeostasis, where the seepages, outlet valves, and evaporation match the amount of snow and rain each year. The lake level fluctuates remarkably little these days: the highest high water is only 16 feet taller than the lowest low water.
Snow Snow Snow
The other thing for which Crater Lake is famous is the snow. Crater Lake is one of the snowiest places in the Lower 48, and gets an average of about 400-500 inches (32-40 ft.) of snow each year. When I arrived in late May, snow drifts still towered above me, and most roads were closed until early July. The massive amount of snow melts into underground aquifers, which feed springs and creeks for the long and dry summer season.
My Role at Crater Lake
I am working this summer as a Backcountry Park Ranger. This consists of a lot of odd jobs, but one of my most consistent duties is issuing backcountry permits for those who wish to camp in the park. While on field shifts, I check those permits and monitor the condition of trails in the park. I also hike the trails to interact with visitors, educating them about the park and Leave No Trace principles. My last main duty is performing search and rescue work when needed, whether that is searching for lost hikers or driving the park ambulance in emergencies.
I very much enjoy my work as a Backcountry Park Ranger because it allows me to have my foot in two different worlds.
The first world is the backcountry of Crater Lake National Park, where visitor interactions are low, and I simply get to enjoy the remote regions of the park. This is where I pick up trash along the trail or perform trail maintenance, or even map trails with a GPS device. I enjoy knowing that I have hiked every single mile of trail in the park, and have gotten to see places in this area that most others have not. For example, the other day I hiked to Scoria Cone, the only glacier in the park, which many do not know about. Having a deep knowledge of a national park, which cannot be gleaned from a day or even a week-long visit, is satisfying to me and is one of my favorite parts of this job.
The second world is the public-facing side, where I get to have interactions with visitors and share with them information about the park. Some of my most fulfilling moments this summer were when I made someone’s day by issuing a junior ranger badge, answered a burning question they had about the park, or pointed out the Old Man of the Lake to a visitor, a rare sighting indeed. Witnessing people’s joy when they experience a special moment in the park or get personal attention from a Park Ranger is unmatched.
Crater Lake Odds & Ends
There are so many interesting things about Crater Lake that it is impossible to go into detail about all of them in this blog post. However, I will briefly share with you a few of my favorites.
“The Old Man of the Lake” is a log that curiously has been floating upright in the lake since at least the 1880s. It can travel up to 6 miles each day on the lake, and its whereabouts are not always known. Seeing it is a special occasion for rangers and visitors alike. (see photo below)
Six species of fish were stocked in the lake from approx 1910-1930. Only two species survived and remain today: rainbow trout and kokanee salmon.
The tallest point in the park is Mt. Scott at 8,929 ft.
Crater Lake gets 400-500 inches (32-40 feet) of snow on average each winter. This past winter it got 620. That’s almost 52 feet!
A little known fact about the Rogue River is that its headwaters are actually in the Park’s boundaries, at a place called Boundary Springs. This is one of the largest springs in the park which can pump over 300 cubic feet per second out of the ground!
Crater Lake loses 2 million gallons of water each hour due to seepage. This water is replenished primarily by snow melt. The lake level is astonishingly constant, fluctuating only a maximum of 16 ft.
The Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) has 33 miles of trail that go right through the park!
There is only one trail leading from the rim down to the lake, called the Cleetwood Cove Trail.
Swimming is allowed in Crater Lake. Take the Cleetwood Cove Trail down to the water or take a boat to Wizard Island. Swimming is allowed in both spots.
Other Adventures in Oregon
Sadly, the Canoe Rambler has not done any canoeing this summer! But I sure have done a lot of rambling. During my off days, I spent my time hiking, backpacking, and generally exploring the Cascade Range of Oregon and northern California. I summited four peaks while I was here, and I am proud of each one. I camped on beautiful alpine lakes and walked through wildflower meadows. It’s been a very rewarding summer in terms of my off-time pursuits.
Clockwise starting from upper left: Backpacking at Shadow Lake, summiting Mt. Shasta, Lassen Peak summit, and South Sister summit.
J-C,
What a marvelous summer experience you've had! Such a beautiful place, and interesting - gorgeous pictures. I imagine you've not had a dull moment! I've thought for many years that the role of park ranger is perfect for you (seems like we all agree on this!).
Hoping to see you soon.
Maria
JC,
What an amazing gig. Perfect for your skillset. Enjoy every minute!
Peace, my friend.